West Highland Way 2019 Day 5

Day 5 Wednesday 25^th September 2019

Staying in a converted railway station waiting room may sound like a novelty, but the fact that repairs were being done at a viaduct further back along the railway line meant that the repair supplies stored at the station were transported by train at various times throughout the night (3 a.m. then again at 5 a.m.).  I left just after 7 for a rather picturesque day of walking, albeit not even taking a photo of the namesake of the place, duh!

At first it was up and over some hills, then down overlooking Loch Tulla.   

Then I passed by the Inveroran Hotel (a-hah! - if you don't get that you did not read 2 days previous' post) and along the old military road, which I had read is the most remote part of the Way (although, when catching the bus back from Fort William 2 days later, I realised I could see where I walked from the bus as it travelled!).

I came over a rise and the valley before me opened up to reveal Glen Coe, one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever seen, marred only by the main road travelling right up the centre.

As I descended past the ski lifts off to my left (which I did not notice until I looked back a bit later), and to the main road, it started to rain, so the camera went into the rucksack again (leaving me with the phone to take photos).

I passed by the Kingshouse hotel.   

The Way here followed the old military road that went somewhat parallel to the main road, so the intermittent noise and sight of the traffic reduced my enjoyment of the views.  Thinking back, I realised that since Balmaha three days ago I have often found the sounds of nature interrupted by the sounds of traffic (sometimes in the distance across a loch, or an expanse of moors), due to the West Highland Way roughly following the A82.

At Altnafeadh the Way left the road to head up over the hills toward Kinlochleven, ascending the steepest section of the trail, the Devil’s Staircase.  I’m guessing a lot of people drove up to the Buachaille Etive Mor car park and walk this section to get some of the great views back across Glen Coe because suddenly there were tons of people walking

Looking up toward the Devil's Staircase

Once over the high point, the number of people lessened, and it was a rolling descent toward Kinlochleven.   

Not too long before arriving, and near some form of waterworks/reservoir up in the hills, I came across the woman who had caught the bus that morning, so despite her travelling more than half the distance by bus, I still covered the same distance in roughly the same time.  I chatted with her briefly, and she told me she was catching another bus tomorrow instead of walking the last section.

My accommodation for the night was a tiny pod at a campsite upon entering Kinlochleven, for £55!  I spent the afternoon shopping at the local co-op, showering, reading, and having a cider at a pub before finally deciding on fish ‘n’ chips from the local chippy – the best piece of fish I’ve had in ages!!  Yum!

Day 6